![]() ![]() One thing you will notice as you strip the unit down is how cheaply these ovens are made. This meant I essentially took the unit completely apart. I decided to remove the heating elements to make it easier to install this tape. The Whizoo kit comes with some high temperature reflective insulation that you line the oven chamber with. So I opened up the case and basically removed all the guts. I decided to replace pretty much everything. You can re-use some of the oven parts and cabling (saving yourself some money) or opt to replace everything, depending on your budget and your needs. You also need to make some design decisions. Update: If you are interested in an Instructable on setting up a solder paste dispenser for SMD projects check out this one I just recently publishedĪt this point you want to take the oven apart and remove all unneeded parts. ![]() You will need to make various design decisions during a project of this nature and you need to be able to evaluate the various potential safety issues involved. Do not attempt this project if you are not competent in the various tasks required and able to do them safely. You can easily electrocute yourself and/or burn your house down if you are not careful. It is nice to know you get very good support when you purchase a product.ĭISCLAIMER!! - This project deals with high voltages and high temperatures. I also found that the person behind Whizoo (Peter Easton) answers email questions very quickly and at all hours of the night. You can also find various examples of user made ovens Here. I recommend you read completely through their guide and this Instructable before you start your own oven as there are a few caveats you will run into along the way. ![]() Whizoo also has a great Build Guide which details each step. You can see the various purchasing options Here. I bought my kit before the servo was available so I rigged up my own servo door opening mechanism. There is even a servo to crack the door open after the cycle is complete to allow the board to cool correctly. They also offer some extras in the kit including various insulation types (allows the oven to heat up quickly and evenly) and a booster heater (ensures the unit heats up at the correct rate). While I had wanted a kit, the Whizoo is fully assembled but you still have a lot of work to integrate it with your toaster oven. It also has full PWM (pulse width modulation) control of the heaters to give you a more accurate temperature profile which is very important in reflow soldering. It offers a decent GUI and a self-calibration function that I felt was important to get decent results. Looking at various options I decided on the Whizoo Controleo2 Reflow Controller. Some controllers just allow the oven to plug in (so you don't need to take the oven apart) while others integrate completely inside the oven (more work but a much better product in the end). A large number of them are Arduino based. They range from one-off designs to DIY boards to full kits. Doing a web search, you will find many options for toaster oven reflow controllers. I decided to put together a toaster oven and wanted something that could handle large boards and possibly do small production runs. This essentially mimics a commercial reflow oven. Toaster Oven - This seems the most promising for the hobbyist and while you can just wing it with the manual controls there are also a range of control options for automation and temperature control. However it can be pretty tedious and take a long time if you have lots of parts.Įlectric Frying Pan - This can work for smaller boards but the temperature control is pretty difficult so it can be hit and miss. Hand Soldering - Using a fine-tipped soldering iron and small-diameter solder you can work with the larger of the SMD devices. There are several options for doing your own SMD soldering: However as time goes by, not only are more and more components are becoming available only in SMD (surface mount device) but also more interesting projects are also SMD based. I have been an electronics hobbyist for many years and have always stuck with through-hole components when making a project. ![]()
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